For Your Perfect Hand-Knit Set-In Sleeve...

If you are casting-on for your Chaset or other top-down set-in sleeve sweater, please do the following:

1.       With BLOCKED gauge swatch sufficiently wide, swatch gauge per 4”/10 cm must equal pattern gauge exactly. For Chaset, the BLOCKED gauge is 22 sts per 4”/10 cm. Check gauge at several levels on the swatch and average.

2.       Have another person measure your cross-back (back) while you wear a thin camisole or other top so landmarks can be seen and felt. Thin black strips of sport tape illustrate placement. Stand relaxed with arms at your sides. The back is measured from shoulder tip to shoulder tip by feeling for the indentation at the top of the arm where it meets the shoulder. A finger at the correct spot does not move with the arm when the arm is raised.

This photo illustrates correct placement of the strips. The cross-back is the distance between the strips.

 Correct Measurement (I recommend negative ease of 0.5"/1.5 cm for your back measurement for Chaset pattern)

Correct Measurement (I recommend negative ease of 0.5"/1.5 cm for your back measurement for Chaset pattern)

These photos illustrate incorrect placement (too wide) as strip moves when arm raises.

 Too wide

Too wide

 Strip moves with arm when arm elevated (poor placement)

Strip moves with arm when arm elevated (poor placement)

            3.       The cross-front is measured half way between top of shoulder and underarm where arm meets body, as shown below.

 Correct cross-front width

Correct cross-front width

 

4.      Measure biceps at level of armhole. In set-in sleeves, finished sleeve circumference at level of the armhole usually looks best without ease.

5.     For armhole depth, stand up and have someone measure. Armhole depth is outer shoulder tip (see top photo) to floor MINUS armhole to floor. The end of the tape should be as high in the armhole as it will go (and lay flat). I recommend for your Chaset pattern, add 1"/2.5 cm positive ease to your armhole depth measurement described here.

In summary:

1. For almost everyone, the cross-front is smaller than the cross-back, making the couture option in Chaset front shoulder shaping a reasonable option.  

2. I RECOMMEND PICKING A BACK (CROSS-BACK) MEASUREMENT FOR YOUR CO STS WITH 0.5"/1.5 cm NEGATIVE EASE COMPARED TO THE CROSS-BACK MEASUREMENT ABOVE. With a bit of negative ease, the back still fits and the cross-front fits better, also.

3. The best fitting set-in sleeve will have no ease at underarm (biceps circumference).

4. The best fitting set-in sleeve will have 1"/2.5 cm positive ease for armhole depth as measured above.

5. If you cannot find a size that has back, biceps as described above with your chest, I recommend the Custom Pattern Fitting Program for you (see on my home page on this site).

Happy knitting!  Bonnie